Thanks, we're based in Lincolnshire. We've had a roof fitted by Drivelodge,a top notch job and I would recommend the company. We've done a lot of the insulating ourselves. A local van conversation company will be lining and fitting a tough laminate floor. We've ordered a side conversion kit from Convert Your Van in Sheffield and they will be fitting a M1 rock and roll bed when we collect the kit. Nice guys to chat to but terrible at answering the phone.
Our power requirements shouldn't be too high. We're going to run a toolbox for short trips away and will have led strip lighting. I'm looking at solar alternatives.
Yes have to agree Drivelodge made a grand job on the top pop, nice company & James is top bloke, he stored all of my van furniture and insulation for me to collect as it was way to expensive to ship up to the highlands.
Planning to fit the leisure battery on top of the car battery, already tried it and loads of space, making a support plate to sit on top with threaded rod to hold in place.
I am picking mine up on sat from drive lodge after having roof fitted and getting windows fitted on way home. I have made a bracket to put leisure battery on top of van battery, but have not tried it yet. I am fitting a split charge relay and a smartcom relay. If you are thinking of using solar I think this is the better option than a duel sensing relay. Active campers c-tek looks a nice uncluttered option if you are happy with the price.
I would be interested to hear how you get on with the furniture. I am in two minds if to make my self or getting some one else to do it. Sheffield is just down the road from me so would be interested in any photos and idea of costs.
I've paid about £2200 for a side conversion in kit form (with top cupboards) ready to fit and a M1 rock'n'roll bed fitted. Really nice guys but take a drive out to speak to them. The chap next door does ply kits to fit the nv.
Be interested to see the ply kits you mention. Of course, we'll be making our own
Our custom bed ordered last week, as with custom water tanks.
As for batteries, we've decided on 2x 100AH leisure batteries These will fit inside next to the OS wheel arch inside the bottom of the unit.
Chargers (240v & b2b ctek) etc with 240v consumer unit being fitted today/Monday - and this will be recessed into the void above the OS wheelarch. Hookup discreetly bolted to towbar
Photos will be on blog in a few days.
PS - be interested how/where you run the +12 from the engine to the rear
Leisure battery fitted sitting on top of battery in engine compartment on a rubber lined tray, made up two brackets and retaining clip, with 12/24v solenoid bolted onto bracket, cable run through bulk head, and above passenger & drivers foot well, underneath the plastic protector at drivers door and under the 9mm ply wood flooring to the back half way along the back wheel arch were the split unit will be installed onto the high cupboard once I build it.
Need to get on with the insulation and lining the van and get the R&R bed ordered, just wish we had some warm weather for it.
I'm starting with insulation and lining (!) - some tips on our build blog. We have lined all 4 doors (doors, only one panel done so far). Its a b**ch of a job to get anything vaguely looking neat. Most pro conversion on the NV don't line the entire door - there is a reason lol - its tough.
Thanks for that route idea - I'll look at that. What size cable did you run and did you sheath it? We are using 10mm2 (75A) cable, but only pulling 20A max (fused at 25A) over it - going thick to avoid voltage drop as its a 5m run. Taking -ve back to chassis.
We are doing different, we are having 2x 100Ah batteries next to the OS wheel arch (between arch and wardobe wall) - and the electronics on that wall. But still need a feed from VB to the ctek charger.
17A? Single cable for live, or double for live? (aka 34A?) That's 1mm2 cable? x2 so 2mm2?
Hate to say this, but if you really mean 17A cable - you are way too small. Assuming you are doubling up, so 34A, pulling 20A over that for charging over 6m is a 17% voltage drop..... (2v) . Pulling 30A will be a 25% drop (3v)
And if you mean single cable, err, think "burning smell".
So I do hope you aren't running 1mm cable for that!
(FYI - I'm running 2mm2 for low power LEDs to minimise voltage drop; 4mm2 for fridge and heater (2-3m only), and 2.5mm for USB/12v socket, and 10mm2 for battery feed even though I'm only going to pull 20A)
Aye happy as said guy tested it, he does boats but no different than a car. Next job is to run the 12 volt light cables up to the split box location, along with the water pump. This wee job just keeps growing!
My elecrtics include 4 lights; 1 pump; fridge; heater; 2x 12v; 2x2xUSB; solar; tank gauge; tank waste; electric tank emptying; battery monitor; hob ignitor.... And its a DIY control panel!
Uploaded more pics - all build pics linked on all blog posts if you are interested.
Can you see your cable from the VB in the cab? And do you mean drivers step? How does that come off?
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