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Discussion Starter #1
1500 Diesel Engine k9k.
First remove the under engine plastic panel and drain the sump which requires a 8mm square drive available from Halfords. The under pan is held in place by five hex head bolts and plastic press studs. These are easy to remove by simply gently pulling up the central locking pin with a flat screw driver which releases the stud. On assembly pressing the central pin back in locks the stud in place. The bolts are best greased on reassembly.
The oil filter is located adjacent to the alternator on the left front of the engine and is extremely difficult to get to.
Access to the filter is possible form below, not so easy from above as there are four pipes running over the top of the filter casing. The top two pipes are air pipes and can be removed by releasing the clips and bolt fixings. This does improve access to the filter in that there are only two remaining pipes in the way and they are flexible, but water pipes, so not a good idea to remove them.
Because of the very awkward and cramped access from underneath it is not possible to rotate the filter with a chain type wrench as rotation is restricted.
It is possible to use a strap type wrench but again access to very tight.
(In my case although this was the first filter change the factory fitted filter was unbelievably tight and the best I could do with a filter wrench was distort the filter casing working from the top and below. It eventually became obvious that this particular filter was not going to move. This half hour job had turned into half a day and still no further ahead. This situation needed a rethink.):nerd:
Below the filter casing is a 19mm hex. bolt head. This bolt holds the filter assembly on the the side of the engine block. It is easy to access from below and once undone will allow the filter to be easily removed albeit still screwed to the filter mounting casting. This assembly can then be taken to the bench to separate the filter.
(In my case with the assembly in the vice it took a huge amount of force to turn the filter which had been over tightened)
Note that the filter mounting casting is alloy so care has to be taken not to damage it)
The filter mounting casting has a robust rubber oil seal fitted against the engine block which can be safely be reused. Also the fixing bolt is sealed using rubber O rings that will reuse.
I have read reports of the filter being a pig to change I hope this is a solution to the problem.
Needless to say fit the new filter in accordance with the manufacturers instructions and do not over tighten.:smile:

Black Van...
 

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I had exactly the same problem - extremely tight filter.
Same simple job turned into half a day. Tried from the top and managed to damage the alternator connecter (luckily managed to repair that!!)
So my advice is to first try from below using a long ratchet extension and a chain wrench type filter tool. This is how I got my filter off in the end.

Lots of foul language used, especially when I slipped and damaged the alternator connecter on the alternator body!

Simple job made difficult by Nissan - thanks!

Have you any ideas how to refill the gearbox oil??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Gearbox Oil Change

I also used long extension from below but still could not move it...and I was worried about damaging the alternator.!!
The engine / gearbox is the same as in a Renault Clio and there tends to be move info regarding these cars on the web.
Found this on a 'Clio' Forum site.
Check out the type JR5 Gerabox-

Gearbox oil Capacities for the :

JH3 Gearbox fitted to 1.4 (K4J) & 1.6 (K4M) petrol = 2.8 litres

JR5 Gearbox fitted to 1.5DCi (K9K) = 2.5 Litres

ND0 Gearbox fitted to 1.9DCi (F9Q) & 2.0 (F4R) Petrol = 2.1 Litres

In all gearbox types above the oil is filled through the filler plug that is located on the FRONT of the gearbox casing. The oil is poured in until it overflows from the filler hole..
Do not fill through the Breather pipe located on top of the gearbox casing..

The Gearbox drain plug is located under the Differential on the bottom of the gearbox.
 

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1500 Diesel Engine k9k.
First remove the under engine plastic panel and drain the sump which requires a 8mm square drive available from Halfords. The under pan is held in place by five hex head bolts and plastic press studs. These are easy to remove by simply gently pulling up the central locking pin with a flat screw driver which releases the stud. On assembly pressing the central pin back in locks the stud in place. The bolts are best greased on reassembly.
The oil filter is located adjacent to the alternator on the left front of the engine and is extremely difficult to get to.
Access to the filter is possible form below, not so easy from above as there are four pipes running over the top of the filter casing. The top two pipes are air pipes and can be removed by releasing the clips and bolt fixings. This does improve access to the filter in that there are only two remaining pipes in the way and they are flexible, but water pipes, so not a good idea to remove them.
Because of the very awkward and cramped access from underneath it is not possible to rotate the filter with a chain type wrench as rotation is restricted.
It is possible to use a strap type wrench but again access to very tight.
(In my case although this was the first filter change the factory fitted filter was unbelievably tight and the best I could do with a filter wrench was distort the filter casing working from the top and below. It eventually became obvious that this particular filter was not going to move. This half hour job had turned into half a day and still no further ahead. This situation needed a rethink.):nerd:
Below the filter casing is a 19mm hex. bolt head. This bolt holds the filter assembly on the the side of the engine block. It is easy to access from below and once undone will allow the filter to be easily removed albeit still screwed to the filter mounting casting. This assembly can then be taken to the bench to separate the filter.
(In my case with the assembly in the vice it took a huge amount of force to turn the filter which had been over tightened)
Note that the filter mounting casting is alloy so care has to be taken not to damage it)
The filter mounting casting has a robust rubber oil seal fitted against the engine block which can be safely be reused. Also the fixing bolt is sealed using rubber O rings that will reuse.
I have read reports of the filter being a pig to change I hope this is a solution to the problem.
Needless to say fit the new filter in accordance with the manufacturers instructions and do not over tighten.:smile:

Black Van...
is a nissan np200 sump plug left thread
 
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