Thanks for the how-to. Very clean install. Any chance you could post part numbers/links for the camera and monitor you used?
Installing a Rear View camera & Monitor
14
This is more of a pictorial how to rather than a step by step. Automotive knowledge is extremely helpful before taking any steps to modifying your vehicle.
I have blacked out the rear glass windows of my van to keep prying eyes out along with window cages should the evildoers want to get access to the rear.
That being said, the stock rear view camera really sucks. Yes, I said it. The $950 technology package sucks. It's okay at best. The stock rear view camera only operates when in reverse and the picture not only looks grainy, but only points towards the ground. It's perfect for, well, you guessed it, backing up or to hitch a trailer of which the North American NV200's are prohibited from doing so due to the CVT.
I have a full time rear view camera system in my Sprinter van and use it almost exclusively as a replacement rear view mirror. The NV is a tiny van, however my wife feels insecure driving it with no rearward visibility.
So I ordered a knock off 5" lcd monitor with camera from Amazon (Don't you love Amazon??) for about $50. My intent was to use this cheapie system to experiment with and give me the motivation to run the wiring. Prior to Aristo publishing the NV200 body builders guide, I knew the van would be quirky in where to tap for power and where to run the wiring. I ran the wiring along the center of the van using a fish wire that lead me to the overhead lights over the factory mirror. There is a nice pocket of space to throw all of your power leads and such in there behind the light module. from there, the power line runs down the left a-pillar to the fusebox where I installed a mini add-a-circuit fuse to the audio system. In doing so, the rear view monitor shuts down with the ignition.
So here are the photos.... Unfortunately, I didn't take the before photos of the wiring up front.
Running the camera wiring through the door. I used electricians wire lube and a solid core wire as a fish to pull the camera wiring through the factory rubber loom.
I drilled out the brake light lens (Gulp) to fit the camera. It is siliconed in place and left to dry overnight.
Power for the camera comes from the rear of the van using the cargo lamp circuit. The camera stays on for about 5 minutes and shuts off as does the cargo light once the key is turned off.
Removing the door card required the removal of several push-pin fasteners but the tricky part was to remove the plastic surround on the door handle. It will pry off, but try using your hands before pulling out the tools!
Door card fasteners:
You can see the wiring running to the rear of the van. One set of wires is the camera, the other set is for a 30amp dedicated circuit for an A/C power inverter for my cordless tool battery charging needs. I used clear silicone adhesive to hold up the wiring and to prevent chafing where the wiring runs next to the roof ribs. From there, I first used clear package tape to hold the whole shebang to the ceiling and allow the silicone to set overnight.
I tie wrapped my wiring and followed it with the stock harness to keep it out of harms way. Once that is all done, the door can be reassembled. Looks like I was never in there!
The first LCD monitor that I bought from amazon had a nice picture, but the mounting was extremely flimsy and it depended on an adhesive sticky back to hold it in place to the windscreen. The adhesive only lasted four days before the monitor was dangling!
Out with the 5" monitor and in with the 7" Rear View Systems branded monitor. This one has a mount that I secured using the existing mirror mounting holes. This mount is ridged and made of metal. It is firmly in place and never vibrates when driving.
While I was "in there", I installed a dash cam as seen at the far right of the picture. It too, will power on and off based on the engine running.
Installation is much cleaner too.
This photo was before adding the LED lights to the overhead console.
I have blacked out the rear glass windows of my van to keep prying eyes out along with window cages should the evildoers want to get access to the rear.
That being said, the stock rear view camera really sucks. Yes, I said it. The $950 technology package sucks. It's okay at best. The stock rear view camera only operates when in reverse and the picture not only looks grainy, but only points towards the ground. It's perfect for, well, you guessed it, backing up or to hitch a trailer of which the North American NV200's are prohibited from doing so due to the CVT.
I have a full time rear view camera system in my Sprinter van and use it almost exclusively as a replacement rear view mirror. The NV is a tiny van, however my wife feels insecure driving it with no rearward visibility.
So I ordered a knock off 5" lcd monitor with camera from Amazon (Don't you love Amazon??) for about $50. My intent was to use this cheapie system to experiment with and give me the motivation to run the wiring. Prior to Aristo publishing the NV200 body builders guide, I knew the van would be quirky in where to tap for power and where to run the wiring. I ran the wiring along the center of the van using a fish wire that lead me to the overhead lights over the factory mirror. There is a nice pocket of space to throw all of your power leads and such in there behind the light module. from there, the power line runs down the left a-pillar to the fusebox where I installed a mini add-a-circuit fuse to the audio system. In doing so, the rear view monitor shuts down with the ignition.
So here are the photos.... Unfortunately, I didn't take the before photos of the wiring up front.
Running the camera wiring through the door. I used electricians wire lube and a solid core wire as a fish to pull the camera wiring through the factory rubber loom.
I drilled out the brake light lens (Gulp) to fit the camera. It is siliconed in place and left to dry overnight.
Power for the camera comes from the rear of the van using the cargo lamp circuit. The camera stays on for about 5 minutes and shuts off as does the cargo light once the key is turned off.
Removing the door card required the removal of several push-pin fasteners but the tricky part was to remove the plastic surround on the door handle. It will pry off, but try using your hands before pulling out the tools!
Door card fasteners:
You can see the wiring running to the rear of the van. One set of wires is the camera, the other set is for a 30amp dedicated circuit for an A/C power inverter for my cordless tool battery charging needs. I used clear silicone adhesive to hold up the wiring and to prevent chafing where the wiring runs next to the roof ribs. From there, I first used clear package tape to hold the whole shebang to the ceiling and allow the silicone to set overnight.
I tie wrapped my wiring and followed it with the stock harness to keep it out of harms way. Once that is all done, the door can be reassembled. Looks like I was never in there!
The first LCD monitor that I bought from amazon had a nice picture, but the mounting was extremely flimsy and it depended on an adhesive sticky back to hold it in place to the windscreen. The adhesive only lasted four days before the monitor was dangling!
Out with the 5" monitor and in with the 7" Rear View Systems branded monitor. This one has a mount that I secured using the existing mirror mounting holes. This mount is ridged and made of metal. It is firmly in place and never vibrates when driving.
While I was "in there", I installed a dash cam as seen at the far right of the picture. It too, will power on and off based on the engine running.
Installation is much cleaner too.
This photo was before adding the LED lights to the overhead console.
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