[aaronleecooper99]

Hoping someone can shed a bit of light on this.
Have a 2017 NV200 S CVT transmission.
Recently had the oil changed.
41 k miles
Went for a drive today, but straight away it would not accelerate, just kept cutting out, limped it back home.
I checked the air filter and put back in again, disconnected battery and reattached, plus disconnected a couple of the sensors and checked.
nothing appeared strange and now it seems to run fine.
Anyone know why this would happen? Do I need to take it to a mechanic still?

 

[Fummins]

Buy a code reader or take it to a shop so they can look for codes if it happens again. Right now suggesting anything would be just guessing. Basically impossible to tell you what was wrong. You likely cleared any stored codes when you disconnected the battery so too late for that. All you can do is make sure your fluid levels are at the correct level. Especially the cvt fluid! It should be fine unless you have a leak you don't know about. Doesn't hurt to change the cvt fluid once in a while either. They are a ticking time bomb in most vehicles.

 

[aaronleecooper99]

Buy a code reader or take it to a shop so they can look for codes if it happens again. Right now suggesting anything would be just guessing. Basically impossible to tell you what was wrong. You likely cleared any stored codes when you disconnected the battery so too late for that. All you can do is make sure your fluid levels are at the correct level. Especially the cvt fluid! It should be fine unless you have a leak you don't know about. Doesn't hurt to change the cvt fluid once in a while either. They are a ticking time bomb in most vehicles.

Buy a code reader or take it to a shop so they can look for codes if it happens again. Right now suggesting anything would be just guessing. Basically impossible to tell you what was wrong. You likely cleared any stored codes when you disconnected the battery so too late for that. All you can do is make sure your fluid levels are at the correct level. Especially the cvt fluid! It should be fine unless you have a leak you don't know about. Doesn't hurt to change the cvt fluid once in a while either. They are a ticking time bomb in most vehicles.

No check engine / warning lights came on, that was the weird thing ? So there was nothing to check on with an obd reader. I literally just got it back from a service where they said they had checked everything too! That was why it was so strange

 

[Fummins]

Ok. Just because there is no light does not mean there is no code. Though it can take a few tries until a computer recognizes a problems and actually stores a code, depending on what the problem is. Basically you can have a problem, not have a check engine light come but be able to pick it up with a $1500 scan tool that is able to scan all the modules, abs, airbag, transmission, bcm, tpms, etc...Things that a $20 obdII code reader can't.

I don't know where you just got it back from service or what service you had done. Take a car in for an oil change and they won't do a full diagnostics check on all your computers for you at a quick lube place.

I'll let someone else chime in unless you can give explain what exactly was happening when it acted up. I deal with people all day long that don't know how to explain that their car cranks over but won't start. Instead they just say it's dead, won't start, need a boost probably,...Or it fires but won't stay running. It's even harder to figure out wth is happening by reading posts that exclude useful info that's been asked for over and over.

 

[Fummins]

Would it rev over 2500rpm when in neutral or only while in gear? Was speed governed or just rpm? No trac control etc/trac control lights? Are the brake lights all functioning properly? Do brake lights stay on at all when not pushing brake pedal? Is ebrake handle released all the way? Are all wheel speed sensors working correctly, and same readings while driving straight?

 

[number896]

Yeah sounds like it was in some kind of limp mode for some reason or other. There should be codes even if the eml isn't on - that's if any of the faults have re-occurred since you 'reset' it.
Check your breakdown cover, pray, drive it for a week or so then check again for codes

 

[Fummins]

Maybe he caught the covid?

 

[stevie_a]

DPF

Light will come on eventually, Just had it with one of my vans, was confusing as there were no warning lights, started pulling back on motorway at 65mph and then got worse, Out of my 4 NV;s this one was doing short journeys

 

[Fummins]

That could be the problem if he had a diesel engine. But the north american nv's have only been sold with a gas engine and a cvt.
We don't have much for small diesels out here except for vw's golfs and jetta's.

 

[Fummins]

Hoping someone can shed a bit of light on this.
Have a 2017 NV200 S CVT transmission.
Recently had the oil changed.
41 k miles
Went for a drive today, but straight away it would not accelerate, just kept cutting out, limped it back home.
I checked the air filter and put back in again, disconnected battery and reattached, plus disconnected a couple of the sensors and checked.
nothing appeared strange and now it seems to run fine.
Anyone know why this would happen? Do I need to take it to a mechanic still?

Sooooo, did you ever figure this one out?
I just had to go pick up a 2017 NV200 with 185k kms do the exact same thing. Driver was going down the road then it wouldn't rev over 2500. I get there with the trailer and it sure enough it had like a rev limiter at 2500. It was weird, definately not a fuel issue, it was like in limp home mode. No CEL. Wouldn't rev up in drive or neutral,park. I started and shut it off a few times and it still did the same thing. Drove it onto the trailer them boom, it's acting fine now...These really are turds.
I'll post what I figure out.

 

[Fummins]

Well, this one has the same code as the 2015 I just finished dealing with. P0101.

Gonna do the same crap as I did with the other one. It's due for spark plugs so I'll go ahead with that, it'll get a new intake gasket because Nissan is stupid. Might as well replace the pcv at the same time. The resonator thing between the valve cover and intake tube(between maf and t-body) is kinda loose too. Probably will throw a new air filter at it then cross my fingers.
This particular van also has a bunch of other issues I might as well get to fixing at the same time. The effin heater control for the temp doesn't work properly. It'll pull the cable to hot but the flapper in the heater box binds up and knocks the cable off the controls when switching to cold. The heater motor only runs on high(I already replaced the heater motor and resistor but got a week out of it before the resistor packed it in again). Both outer sliding door handles are broken too. What a gem.