[bobatcapricorn]

Has anyone else experienced fuel injector problems with these vans. I have 2014 acenta DCI on 15000 miles and have already had to replace one ignitor (over £500) and it seems another has gone down yesterday?

 

[Carnmore]

A couple off questions:

The bluetooth phone microphone is poor - the other caller can't hear me.
Is is faulty or just a poor system?

The engine continues to rev when the accelerator is released between gear changes - 1st to 2nd to 3rd noticeably.
Main dealer says this is normal - is it?

There's an air escape or intake noise from the engine.
Again, the main dealer says this is normal?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Fummins]

First off, I'm in Canada. Apparently most people here are not in North America and don't post where they live for some reason. They made more than one model of Nv200. We have 2.0l gas cvt models. We don't get diesel or 5 speed nv's here. 99% of Nv200 owners that I've seen where I live use them for commercial use. They are sold as commercial vehicles by dealerships. They have 100k km warranty just like most other vehicles sold around here with the exception of Mitsubishi 160k kms power train warranty(yes for commercial use too). If they wouldn't offer warranty they wouldn't be selling them here everyone would just go buy fords or dodge's instead. We only bought Nissan's cause they were the cheapest of the 3 and there are no other options out here.
With that said, here's what I've found wrong with these vans over the last 3-4 years.

1. The window moulding that runs along the bottom of the drivers (lh) door glass comes apart leaving a gap for water to drip into the door. Then it runs down and can freeze the outer door handle cable. I've had 2 vans so far with the same problem, could open the door fine but the cable would stick and the door wouldn't latch.

2. The sliding door. The bracket that holds the cable from the outer door handle to the latch is pretty flimsy and bends easily. Over a short time it will bend enough that the door won't open from the outside anymore. The fix for that is reinforce the bracket. I welded up a little reinforcement to support the cable holder and it's been perfect for 6 months now.

3.This is a bad one, might not affect everyone though....The transmission cooler is located down low in the bumper which is great for summer time on bare pavement but not when the roads are sanded and gravel gets kicked up a lot.
We had one van only a few months old have the cvt cooler punctured on the highway. The driver (obviously slow in the head) didn't realize and kept driving til it wouldn't move anymore. Then kept trying some more. Burnt out the cvt and dealer said no warranty. I ended up putting wire mesh on the inside of the lower bumper. No problems since. It's more of a problem on vans that see lots of gravel back roads or highway.

4.The back up cameras suck, it looks like they used different cameras on different years, the 18's look better than the 17's though.

5. The tires wear out fast. I've had 3 different brands of tire, 2 being factory and one type were winter tires. All the factory size and load rating. The front tires wear out crazy fast. I guess that's a feature.....

6.Another winter problem...The washer squirters don't work sometimes in the cold. Yes we use winter washer fluid. Year round. The problem is a check valve freezes/sticks. It's a black plastic Y fitting. I now just throw them in the trash and replace with a regular t or y fitting. I see no need for a check valve. The washers still work fine without.

 

[amckimmey]

2. The sliding door. The bracket that holds the cable from the outer door handle to the latch is pretty flimsy and bends easily. Over a short time it will bend enough that the door won't open from the outside anymore. The fix for that is reinforce the bracket. I welded up a little reinforcement to support the cable holder and it's been perfect for 6 months now.

3.This is a bad one, might not affect everyone though....The transmission cooler is located down low in the bumper which is great for summer time on bare pavement but not when the roads are sanded and gravel gets kicked up a lot.
We had one van only a few months old have the cvt cooler punctured on the highway. The driver (obviously slow in the head) didn't realize and kept driving til it wouldn't move anymore. Then kept trying some more. Burnt out the cvt and dealer said no warranty. I ended up putting wire mesh on the inside of the lower bumper. No problems since. It's more of a problem on vans that see lots of gravel back roads or highway.

any photos of either of these fixes? I have had my NV200 for about 5months now and already have experienced the passanger side door not wanting to open from the outside.

And I also live in a place where I have to ride on gravel a bit. Its probably pretty obvious, but its night and I'm not going outside right now

 

[Fummins]

Sorry like everyone else, I rarely come on this forum. I don't think I've gotten any pics. But I have another van with the same problem on the drivers side. I'll try to remember to take pics when I tear it apart. It's pretty easy to see the bracket once the door panel is off. You might get away with just bending it a little it to take some of the slack out of the cable and lube everything good.

 

[Fummins]

One other problem, it's a rare one and only happening to one of the dozen nv's we have at work.
While driving the traction control light comes on then the engine light, and you lose all throttle. Dealer tried the throttle body and changed one of the computers. It's been at the dealer for the last 2 weeks now. They're stumped. It has been an ongoing random problem since new but has been good for almost a year til last month. I'm assuming it's gonna be a wiring problem somewhere. These things are built pretty poorly. At least the ones we have that are built in mexico.

 

[gizmoman1]

Just thought i'd advise everyone of a problem that can affect the NATS immobiliser system and prevent the van from starting. (this is for a UK van, don't know if the US one is the same). The NATS system is connected to the main ECU and all the other sensors on the vehicle and can be affected by simple wiring problems, in my case water leaking into the rear light cluster caused the lower bulb holder (reversing light) to become corroded, the light still worked but the resistance through the bulb would have been higher than normal due to the bad connection. When trying to start the van it would sometimes fail to recognise the key and the NATS light wouldn't go out, the van wouldn't start and the engine fan would start and stop. This fan behaviour is a sign of a ECU fault. The engine would normally turn over but not start, sometimes it wouldn't even turn, when it did start there were strange effects such as the rev counter missing from the display. Once I removed the wet bulb and cleaned the contacts the problems went. I only found out by searching for NATS problems online and this was a known issue with Nissan Primeras etc. It can still cause problems on the NV200 too it would seem. The advice is therefore to check the lights first for any bad connections before suspecting the NATS sensor or the main ECU, you could spend a lot of time and money trying to track down what is a very simple fault.

 

[gizmoman1]

Just thought i'd advise everyone of a problem that can affect the NATS immobiliser system and prevent the van from starting. (this is for a UK van, don't know if the US one is the same). The NATS system is connected to the main ECU and all the other sensors on the vehicle and can be affected by simple wiring problems, in my case water leaking into the rear light cluster caused the lower bulb holder (reversing light) to become corroded, the light still worked but the resistance through the bulb would have been higher than normal due to the bad connection. When trying to start the van it would sometimes fail to recognise the key and the NATS light wouldn't go out, the van wouldn't start and the engine fan would start and stop. This fan behaviour is a sign of a ECU fault. The engine would normally turn over but not start, sometimes it wouldn't even turn, when it did start there were strange effects such as the rev counter missing from the display. Once I removed the wet bulb and cleaned the contacts the problems went. I only found out by searching for NATS problems online and this was a known issue with Nissan Primeras etc. It can still cause problems on the NV200 too it would seem. The advice is therefore to check the lights first for any bad connections before suspecting the NATS sensor or the main ECU, you could spend a lot of time and money trying to track down what is a very simple fault.

I spoke too soon! The problem came back, intermittent of course but once I got the van running I managed to get the engine fan to come on and off by moving cables under the bonnet,(van was cold and so fan should not be on). I managed to trace it to the top connector on the ECU and when I unplugged it there was a small amount of green corrosion on some of the pins, cleaned it up and so far it seems to be cured, the pins on the ECU are only tiny, needle like, so any corrosion will be bad news, It seems ANY small conductor error can cause the ECU to shut down the van or behave strangely, the only OBD error was a glow plug circuit fault, but the van started fine every time as long as the NATS/ECU didn't stop it. I cleared the error and it hasn't returned (Yet!).

 

[chris.chaudron]

One other problem, it's a rare one and only happening to one of the dozen nv's we have at work.
While driving the traction control light comes on then the engine light, and you lose all throttle. Dealer tried the throttle body and changed one of the computers. It's been at the dealer for the last 2 weeks now. They're stumped. It has been an ongoing random problem since new but has been good for almost a year til last month. I'm assuming it's gonna be a wiring problem somewhere. These things are built pretty poorly. At least the ones we have that are built in mexico.

I had the same problem. And mine even lost all known data and the engine died just for a fraction of a second and turned back on. Dealer couldn't find anything. Found out myself that my European built Dutch driving 1.5dci (now you hot all possible info) had a bad negative battery connector. Took it of. Cleared the surface. Scratched it well and never had this problem anymore.
Perhaps it helps you.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk

 

[Fummins]

I had the same problem. And mine even lost all known data and the engine died just for a fraction of a second and turned back on. Dealer couldn't find anything. Found out myself that my European built Dutch driving 1.5dci (now you hot all possible info) had a bad negative battery connector. Took it of. Cleared the surface. Scratched it well and never had this problem anymore.
Perhaps it helps you.

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G960F met Tapatalk

Our dealership eventually fixed it. They had the van for about 2 months or so. They ended up ordering the entire wiring harness from the throttle body to wherever it goes. It was a big chunk of the under hood harness that they replaced. It's been good so far.

 

[Fummins]

I spoke too soon! The problem came back, intermittent of course but once I got the van running I managed to get the engine fan to come on and off by moving cables under the bonnet,(van was cold and so fan should not be on). I managed to trace it to the top connector on the ECU and when I unplugged it there was a small amount of green corrosion on some of the pins, cleaned it up and so far it seems to be cured, the pins on the ECU are only tiny, needle like, so any corrosion will be bad news, It seems ANY small conductor error can cause the ECU to shut down the van or behave strangely, the only OBD error was a glow plug circuit fault, but the van started fine every time as long as the NATS/ECU didn't stop it. I cleared the error and it hasn't returned (Yet!).

That's good to know! I've had a few vans not start when it's -30c or colder. They would initially start, get driven 50-100ft then parked for 10 mins. When the drivers would go to restart them they would just crank and crank. Then after dicking with them they'd fire up and not have a problem the rest of the day.

I work on a bunch of Mitsubishi Mirages and they've had some corrosion down by the kick panel and under drivers seat causing all sorts of weird problems. Doesn't take much green schmooh to mess everything up.