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We are planning to add some additional plugs for lights, iPhone and iPad chargers and maybe a fridge all on a second battery that will provide power when we are camping (and the van is not running).

I plan to charge this second battery from the NV200 alternator.
I plan to use a deep cycle AGM battery (maybe 100 amp hrs) as my second battery. I'm considering an ACR Automatic Charging Relay from Blue Sea as my battery isolator.

Does anyone have experience with this that could provide advice on if this is the best way to go?
 

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Hi Galasco, the forum is still finding its feet so might be a slow reply!

I know Dinkum another member is converting his to a camper and assume he will have a split charge system and second battery.

I am considering a conversion so split charge will be looked into, quick question, have you located somewhere good to place the leisure battery?

David
 

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Sounds interesting, cool trailer! I love the finish and compactness!

You will have to do a build thread.......
 

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I have experience with multible battery banks on boats. Boats should be no different. There some cautions and limitations to follow. All battery banks should be of the same type. Don't mix a deap cycle battery and a conventional starting battery. Don't mix AGMs and wet cell batteries. Use a battery combiner and not a battery isolator to combine batteries. Battery isolators work like a check valve and have an approx 0.5 voltage drop so one battery would see a lessor charging voltage. Fuse or have a breaker between batteries, plus a manual disconnect switch. I'd also recommend the same fuse or breaker and connect switch between the attery and load. Use marine grade stranded wire and not solid conductor wires due to vibration. Don't use wire nuts for connections. Use maine grade crimps to make conenctions. All this is mandatory for boats because the wiring is subjected to constant vibrations. I'd think land vehicles would be the same. If adding a recepticle, don't use "stab in" connections. Place stranded wire behind screw and tighten. Also don't solder wires together or wires to connector. You may think this is the best connection. It makes the wires brittle and can fail if subjected to vibration. This is counter-intuitive for most people.
 

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I added a second battery under my shelving unit ( fabbed up battery tray and top bar) to my NV to power my 2500/5k peak inverter. Its a work van for me.
I used a deep cycle AGM group 24 size. Ran 4ga power wire from battery to pass side above shock tower. Theres a perfect hole in firewall to pass wire through. I enlarged hole so I could put a thick grommet in there as well as wire loom around wire. Grounded battery in rear.
Multiple fuse relays and a Samlex ACR-160 amp micro-processor automatic battery charge/isolator. The Samlex is great,not only does it isolate the main vehicle battery from being drained when using inverter it also wont pass a charge to AGM battery until main battery has been charged first. It can also be switched to use second battery for emergency start in case main battery dies for some reason.

http://
 

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Demp,

Where did you get the covers for the wheel wells? I find I get a lot of road noise from the tires, particuraly on rainy days
.
 

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I did Multiple coats of spray on bed liner appx 1/8" thick. Also did same treatment to rear bumper and kick plates on front doors where it could easily get scratched. Mask and prep for a fairly clean look. I also coated shelves then added 1/8" thick rubber liner. I've asked several people when on Bluetooth mic while driving how noisy background was and they said not noticeable compared to regular minivan.
I thought about doing a few panel sections up walls but I like how the LED strip light bounces of white and really makes seeing at night easier. Coating the wheel wells help noticeably as well as full partition to quiet things down.
 

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We did place the 2nd battery on top of the original one and as it is difficult to find the D+ signal for the separating relais use the battery charger .
http://www.conrad.biz/ce/de/product/856040/IVT-Zweitbatterielader-12-V80-A/SHOP_AREA_92335
Easy to connect and so far no complaints.

BUT:
Now we do install a 100Wp flexible solar panel that we glue on top of our elevating tops and no longer install 2nd batteries.
After a long term test with the Waeco CDF 25 switched on and starting the engine every morning:
The fridge never went off due to low battery, the car always started (without being moved), after 2 weeks we decided: For us this is the more useful method to provide 12V independance. A second battery provides 12V supply for 3-4 days and is a lot of additional weight (I would never put 100AH into such a small car)

Regards, Thomas
 

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Another idea is to use a jump starter pack. Wire up a cigarette lighter direct from the battery with a relay connected to the accessories ( I used the radio 12v ) use this to charge the jump starter pack and then connect your lights, usb, cigarette lighter up to the jump starter pack. Then you can use the jump starter to jump start yours or anyone elses vehicles, or take it with you on the boat etc. Jump starter has charger built in to it. ie

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online-store/products/SCA-Jumpstart-1200-Amp-Heavy-Duty.aspx?pid=283447&menuFrom=40701#Cross
 

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G' Day, Adding a #2 battery? I have a 2015 on order would like to have a #2 battery but were to mount? any were under hood?
Thanks Cheers Joseph in Venice Fl. u.s.a.
 

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Mounting and Charging 2nd Battery

I have mounted an AGM 12v 125Ah underneath of the floor between the fuel tank and the spare tire from outside and I am working on installing two 100W flexible solar panel on top of the roof to charge them. The solar panel should be able to keep the battery fully charged in a day given the power consumption I plan to use.
 

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I have mounted an AGM 12v 125Ah underneath of the floor between the fuel tank and the spare tire from outside and I am working on installing two 100W flexible solar panel on top of the roof to charge them. The solar panel should be able to keep the battery fully charged in a day given the power consumption I plan to use.
Sounds cool... you should post some pics at some point if you can. Is this for a camper conversion type scenario?
 

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im planning to do the same thing with my camper van conversion without a tear drop trailer. From the research I have done, its best to not to discharge the battery passed 80%. Also im wondering how charging both batteries via the isolator solenoid will affect both batteries as i believe the starter battery is a wet cell vs the deep cycle agm auxiliary battery i plan to use.

Battery isolator solenoid:
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGP38-80-AMP-Battery-Isolator/dp/B001HC6UJ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1436988481&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+isolator

Vmax deep cycle agm 125ah:
http://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436988705&sr=8-2&keywords=deep+cycle

Battery disconnect switch:
http://www.amazon.com/Marinco-701-Battery-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B005DUUL9W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1436988744&sr=8-2&keywords=battery+switch
 

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We are looking to have a 2nd battery, and solar, so need/want both.
Interesting Zoom have battery on top of vehicle battery?


Zoom - how do you fix this there? Good place to have it - ideas welcome. We'd connect a voltage sensitive split charge relay with a heavy duty relay with it and fuses.


But is there an easy route to get a large (100A) cable to the rear drivers side (UK van)? Do you go underneath (rather not) or is there an easy path through the firewall into the cab and along?
 

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We put a 110 AMPH AGM thin battery under the frame just below and behind the drivers seat. It keeps the weight toward the front, keep the heavy gauge wire run to a mininum and allows for a very easy, protected way to run from there into the factory wire bundle just under the drivers seat through a sealed plug and back to the rear inside the vehicle in the wiring harness channel. Give us an email is you need help or ideas.
Stephen
Recon Campers
[email protected]
 
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