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Pic 1 shows the rail rubbing the side, Pic 2 is the seat facing the rear fully forward so you can see the plate.Pic 3 shows it partly turned, you can see the new bolts and the replaced tabs, The tabs were put back mainly for cosmetic reasons, the plate is secured to the base with the four bolts supplied. I just thought it looked better to have both seats looking similar.
 

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Thanks for taking the time to post that. Very interesting pics. If its just the rear corner of the rail that catches, why not angle grind or cut it off?
Looks a really neat job. We would only want passenger seat rotating.
No idea if new van has any other sensors in seat - we will have passenger air bag, but if its just a "seat in use" sensor then that should be okay


From what you say, you did have rails on your "fold flat" seat?


Think it will make more sense when seeing it in the flesh.


Shame about the centre console having to be removed....


Are you doing a camper conversion? We will be - just planning details - trying to ensure we can get everything in before we order :) Will need a custom R&R bed made such that loo goes under front, and is accessible with bed up or down. Also will have solar mounted to roof rails, skylight, windows, heating, insulation, fridge, sink/water, hob, gas, wardrobe etc. How I'm going to get it all in - and whether I am good enough to remains to be seen!!!!!!!! Where abouts are you? If you are doing similar and are ahead of me, then I may need to drop you some beers and copy! :) We are Wiltshire.


Cheers for the pics and info
 

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Thanks for taking the time to post that. Very interesting pics. If its just the rear corner of the rail that catches, why not angle grind or cut it off?
Looks a really neat job. We would only want passenger seat rotating.
No idea if new van has any other sensors in seat - we will have passenger air bag, but if its just a "seat in use" sensor then that should be okay


From what you say, you did have rails on your "fold flat" seat?


Think it will make more sense when seeing it in the flesh.


Shame about the centre console having to be removed....


Are you doing a camper conversion? We will be - just planning details - trying to ensure we can get everything in before we order :) Will need a custom R&R bed made such that loo goes under front, and is accessible with bed up or down. Also will have solar mounted to roof rails, skylight, windows, heating, insulation, fridge, sink/water, hob, gas, wardrobe etc. How I'm going to get it all in - and whether I am good enough to remains to be seen!!!!!!!! Where abouts are you? If you are doing similar and are ahead of me, then I may need to drop you some beers and copy! :) We are Wiltshire.


Cheers for the pics and info
No problem, I have converted my combi for part time campervan use, I'm actually doing a blog at the moment to give people some ideas, it's not finished yet, but you can see it here, https://nv200campervan.wordpress.com/
You need to read it from bottom to top as the newest posts are displayed first, hope it helps, you are doing the right thing in planning well ahead, a full conversion will be a big project, good luck. Didn't want to cut any of the rail as the seat goes right to the back and was afraid I might damage the mechanism. I can live with the scuff marks on the door.
 

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Thanks for link
A good spec Combi should be fitted with heated mirrors.
My blog is www.doyourdream.co.uk and the build will be on there if we go ahead (80% chance at the moment....)
 

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interesting read.
How did you fix the battery in the engine?
And how did you get the LB +12v to the back? Is there an easy run?


Great to see others work.


We will be aiming for standard R&R bed layout (custom size so can access loo at night) and offside units/kitchen aka VW style,


No doubt easier in my head than in practice!
 

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The van spec does not have adjustable rails, so they will need to be added. It does appear as if the seat will miss the center panel when rotated though?
We'll see.
 

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interesting read.
How did you fix the battery in the engine?
And how did you get the LB +12v to the back? Is there an easy run?


Great to see others work.


We will be aiming for standard R&R bed layout (custom size so can access loo at night) and offside units/kitchen aka VW style,


No doubt easier in my head than in practice!
I put the new battery on top of the other one and wrapped a length of metal bracing strip (flexible metal strip with holes) underneath the existing battery, I then used a universal battery mount which goes through the holes in the strip. It seems secure enough but when I did it originally I used large cable ties as a temporary measure and the MOT man failed it! Had to remove the battery to get it passed, so hopefully next year won't be a problem. There's a spare hole in the bulkhead behind the battery area with a grommet in, used that for the power cables, used positive and negative as I read it wasn't recommended to use the vehicle shell as earth for auxillary battery. Good article here http://caravanchronicles.com/2014/03/16/relay-vsr-scr-whats-the-difference/
 

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The van spec does not have adjustable rails, so they will need to be added. It does appear as if the seat will miss the center panel when rotated though?
We'll see.
Not sure how they manage to rotate without hitting the centre and the handbrake on the drivers side, (when a driver swivel is fitted), if you get a chance to go to one of the motorhome shows you will more than likely see a NV200 conversion there so could have a good look.
 

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I don't want to rotate the drivers side - just passenger, so don't think the handbrake is in the way? Not measured that yet.
Why is -ve on LB not recommended via chassis? On pretty much all campervans/motorhomes it is done this way? If I can sort a battery in the engine area, I'd just take LB+ve (and another wire from the split charge relay as I want that feed in the rear) - and would use a bolt in one of the lash-down points as earth. /that's the plan. Guess your +ve went under the carpet to the rear?


Anyway - deposit/order placed on a new NV200 tekna today, so we will be going ahead :)


(edit: Searched more on your comment about -ve wire not being to chassis, and I *think* this is due to old vehicles possibly having +ve earth, so not to take the chance? Also some don't want to make new holes/rust risk. My old (professional) van was earthed through a seat bolt. So don't think it matters.


(And no MOT issues for 3 years :) )
 

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I don't want to rotate the drivers side - just passenger, so don't think the handbrake is in the way? Not measured that yet.
Why is -ve on LB not recommended via chassis? On pretty much all campervans/motorhomes it is done this way? If I can sort a battery in the engine area, I'd just take LB+ve (and another wire from the split charge relay as I want that feed in the rear) - and would use a bolt in one of the lash-down points as earth. /that's the plan. Guess your +ve went under the carpet to the rear?


Anyway - deposit/order placed on a new NV200 tekna today, so we will be going ahead :)


(edit: Searched more on your comment about -ve wire not being to chassis, and I *think* this is due to old vehicles possibly having +ve earth, so not to take the chance? Also some don't want to make new holes/rust risk. My old (professional) van was earthed through a seat bolt. So don't think it matters.


(And no MOT issues for 3 years :) )
Just followed the advice in the link quoted, he seemed to know what he was talking about, only cost a few extra meters of wire anyway, I doubt it was to do with +ve earth, that went out with the ark.Can't help any further with the swivel, I'd already removed the console before fitting so i don't really know for sure if it could have stayed in, Hope you like your NV200 as much as we do!

Edit, it seems there are British Standards for 12V installations in campervans, http://shop.bsigroup.com/ProductDetail/?pid=000000000030238994 Maybe this is one of the regs? TBH this kind of thing is why I wanted to have a modular system, I can take things out and revert to a regular car if need be, the regulations for a proper conversion are a minefield, are you going to register it as a campervan once finished?
 

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AFAIK, there isn't any rule with 12v that *must* be applied. I'm a pretty experienced campervanner, and in a lot of the MH forums there are multiple answers, so you take a google and take your choice :) IMO if the VB is allowed to earth to chassis, along with starter motor & alternator, then LB will be fine! I know every van conversion I've taken a look at has been earthed at a chassis point next to the battery, and the feed to control panel from the LB.


Thinking about it, we may be saying the same thing! As your LB will be earthed to chassis, but your control panel busbar from the battery.
Anyway, you are right it is only a few m of cable extra.


And yep - will be registering as a campervan! So permanent conversion for us.
We were reasonably impressed with the NV test drive. We drove the 90 and it was fine, fast enough. Not as refined as the 110 but I prefer 5speed and a simpler turbo. You can chip the 90 to 110 power if you ever needed to. Cab was more comfortable than expected and more spacious. It is cheaply made and it shows in places, but the price reflects that. But overall, better than expected.
 

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Hi,


I bought the VW swivel base and a set of sliding rails for my passenger seat as it was fixed type, I am having difficulty in removing the fixed rail from the seat base to replace it with the sliding rail, can't get access to the back two bolts on each side, has anyone replace a fixed passenger seat to a sliding rail? My swivel won't work otherwise.


Cheers,


B.
 

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Hi,


Thank you for the information and photographs, my seat was a fixed type but managed to get a set of sliding rails, so today was out with the angle grinder and drill, was a wee bit worried about it all, but with your information and photo's I now have a swivel seat! Yeah a few moments of concern and fitting the sliding rails was a nightmare but got there in the end, passenger seat is now a wee bit higher than drivers seat but happy with the results, could not have don e it with out your input.


Many thanks,


B.
 

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Pics pics pics n details please :)
And that was with the NV200 drivers runners wasn't it?
Whats your thoughts on 3rd party ones? You reckon they'll fit too? The only ones I can find are narrower, but I can cut n weld the bar to make it wider


PS - can you turn it without opening the door?
 

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Hi,


Follow the pictures on page 2 from Gizmoman, Remove the seat and top part of centre cup holder, you will need to cut off the front angle bracket, retain as can be bolted back on. The back mounting bracket is boxed sectioned off. You will need to cut off the back of the bracket so as you can gain access to fit the nuts that will hold the sliding rail to the seat, be sure to file off the burrs on the inside as it is difficult to fit the nuts inside the bracket, I managed to fit the sliding rail with three nuts on each side, it will take you a bit of time to fit the nuts inside the seat box section, the t4 swivel needs to be drilled to fit on the seat, I removed the stab in pin for better line up of the rails as it was pulling the rails off centre. You will need to grind down the back bolt hole boss on the swivel plate as the bolt head will catch on the swivel lever when turning.


I found it was easier to mount every thing on the seat turned upside down, you will need to drill two holes in the seat base at the front to bolt the swivel plate down, the back bolts fit through the swivel plate were you have ground flush boss.


You need to open the door for the seat to turn but to me that's not a problem, a lot of swearing and sweating yesterday but in the end I got there took me 4 hours.


B.
 

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That's interesting
Looks like the "lever" to unlock the seat to rotate is on the "inside" of the van. The last van I had, the levers were on the door side?
I may have a different centre console to you (next to handbrake) - as mine is fairly flat and there isn't a cup holder. Its well below the height of the seat base.
Thanks for info
 

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The centre console on mine is a bit of a disappointment. Basically a floor level tray.
Plenty of space between the seats for them to have put a storage box with arm rest on top.
Maybe theres a third party add-on that offers such a thing ?
 

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The centre console on mine is a bit of a disappointment. Basically a floor level tray.
Plenty of space between the seats for them to have put a storage box with arm rest on top.
Maybe theres a third party add-on that offers such a thing ?

I'm planning on putting the diesel heater there :) In a box you can stand on obviously, as there is nothing underneath the van there for exhaust and intake.


/draft plan
 

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I'll fully blog the installation, but....
FASP advice for 97 T4 is spot on - rear holes line up with existing taps in base, needing 2x new in the front. It does rotate with door closed and through (non fixed) tests, I'm sure the seat can rotate fully with door closed and not catching. It may need wiggling forward/back but that's normal.
The pics from gizmoman though are a little worrying....
Looks like the swivel plate is on the wrong way round. The "release" mech should be base on the door side, not the centre (or top bit). As the rotation is offset, this may explain why that catches?
We'll see how we get on tomorrow. Should be 12-16 drill holes, one cut, and one minor weld, and access to lots of the right bolts!


EDIT: See later in thread, the plate APPEARS to be able to be mounted either way - not sure if there is any difference bar preference?
 
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