Not normally you don't, you don't need anywhere near that unless you've got a MASSIVE battery bank.
20/30A split charge relays are the norm, and fine for around 200AH habitation. Virtually all "standard" pro conversions will be to this scale.
The ctek d250s system we are putting in electronically only pulls 20A from vehicle but has an option to pull more, but we won't want/need it. We have 2x 100AH batteries.
You *can* use a 30A standard split charge relay to pull in a heavy duty relay, but generally not needed <200A. This is talked about a lot but seriously not needed.
You can get a voltage sensitive 140A relay for c. £30-35 on ebay, but I don't like them as its possible to tick on/off/on/off if batteries a bit flat. Also, if you are considering >>50A - the cabling and fusing us rather big and, in my view, puts too much strain on engine.
My last van had 30A split charge relay (smartcomm cheap thing) with 25A fuse - 200AH batteries - and we wild camped for most of the time and it charged fine.
Each to their own, but look at maybe the VW forums and ask there - its unlikely any of them go large.
Yep, but that's a heavy duty version, probably for the guys with lots of batteries.
To be honest, I considered that way as I don't like the cheaper relays. But you don't "need" it. A smartcomm relay by itself is enough for a single or double battery
Look on ebay for 140a smart relay if you want.
Or, if you want the SBMCC way, get a relay over 50A - just cable/fuse accourdingly.
I am thinking of going underneath. There is a hole in the floor that is blanked off that should be the right place to be inside the cupboards. My bed came yesterday so I can now measure up and see how big the cupboards will be.
Exciting! Mine is being made next week! So are my water tanks.
Now the seat swivels, I think I can get the heating system between the seats (just, v close) - which protrudes *just* beyond the back of the seat base - which means I may box in an area behind the drivers seat.
So I may be able to get the battery cable through the center console, round the seat, and to the battery controller.
Also, waste water can go the same way as the water tank us on the chassis under the passenger seat - and routing inboard will avoid the exhaust.
Need to get the insulation, lining and roof sorted next though.
FYI - if interested blog has more updates, and the "photo" section is real time in order and shows more than the post. Made them public as it may give other converters ideas.
Got to say the main dealers are a but useless around here. They don't seem able to answer any questions I ask about this subject.
Hope your heater plans go well. I think we are going with gas heating. It uses a lot of gas but dose not take as much out of the battery.
Yep, you are right. Heater ETA maybe 3-4 weeks - got a lot to do before that! (finish roof, skylight, cab, floor....) Had the propex heater before and it is a good device, but the gas usage for us in this van (not refillable gas) would be too much. I've got the Miro 2 from Kiravans - and came with digital control too
I like the add on to the Miro 2 that lets you turn it on by your phone. That would be great after a wet cold day on the mountains knowing you will be getting back to a warm van. I just wouldn't feel confident in fitting a diesel heater and they are so expensive.
Hi - Did anyone find out if the alternator is considered 'smart'?
Im looking to fit a split charge system (VSR), but nervous that it may not be suitable - anyone had success with a VSR? I've only seen examples of the more expensive battery to battery chargers being fitted.