Im starting up a new business and I'm looking at the new NV200. I have a few Ford Transits used in the area but Ive heard bad things about them. Is there any known problems with these vans yet? My dealer is offering a life time unlimited time/unlimited miles warranty on the drive train.
Topher03
I'm certainly not over weight. They just saw a way to screw me out of my warranty and save themselves a bunch of money on future repairs.
Just thought i'd advise everyone of a problem that can affect the NATS immobiliser system and prevent the van from starting. (this is for a UK van, don't know if the US one is the same). The NATS system is connected to the main ECU and all the other sensors on the vehicle and can be affected by simple wiring problems, in my case water leaking into the rear light cluster caused the lower bulb holder (reversing light) to become corroded, the light still worked but the resistance through the bulb would have been higher than normal due to the bad connection. When trying to start the van it would sometimes fail to recognise the key and the NATS light wouldn't go out, the van wouldn't start and the engine fan would start and stop. This fan behaviour is a sign of a ECU fault. The engine would normally turn over but not start, sometimes it wouldn't even turn, when it did start there were strange effects such as the rev counter missing from the display. Once I removed the wet bulb and cleaned the contacts the problems went. I only found out by searching for NATS problems online and this was a known issue with Nissan Primeras etc. It can still cause problems on the NV200 too it would seem. The advice is therefore to check the lights first for any bad connections before suspecting the NATS sensor or the main ECU, you could spend a lot of time and money trying to track down what is a very simple fault.
One other problem, it's a rare one and only happening to one of the dozen nv's we have at work.
While driving the traction control light comes on then the engine light, and you lose all throttle. Dealer tried the throttle body and changed one of the computers. It's been at the dealer for the last 2 weeks now. They're stumped. It has been an ongoing random problem since new but has been good for almost a year til last month. I'm assuming it's gonna be a wiring problem somewhere. These things are built pretty poorly. At least the ones we have that are built in mexico.
While driving the traction control light comes on then the engine light, and you lose all throttle. Dealer tried the throttle body and changed one of the computers. It's been at the dealer for the last 2 weeks now. They're stumped. It has been an ongoing random problem since new but has been good for almost a year til last month. I'm assuming it's gonna be a wiring problem somewhere. These things are built pretty poorly. At least the ones we have that are built in mexico.
Sorry like everyone else, I rarely come on this forum. I don't think I've gotten any pics. But I have another van with the same problem on the drivers side. I'll try to remember to take pics when I tear it apart. It's pretty easy to see the bracket once the door panel is off. You might get away with just bending it a little it to take some of the slack out of the cable and lube everything good.
First off, I'm in Canada. Apparently most people here are not in North America and don't post where they live for some reason. They made more than one model of Nv200. We have 2.0l gas cvt models. We don't get diesel or 5 speed nv's here. 99% of Nv200 owners that I've seen where I live use them for commercial use. They are sold as commercial vehicles by dealerships. They have 100k km warranty just like most other vehicles sold around here with the exception of Mitsubishi 160k kms power train warranty(yes for commercial use too). If they wouldn't offer warranty they wouldn't be selling them here everyone would just go buy fords or dodge's instead. We only bought Nissan's cause they were the cheapest of the 3 and there are no other options out here.
With that said, here's what I've found wrong with these vans over the last 3-4 years.
1. The window moulding that runs along the bottom of the drivers (lh) door glass comes apart leaving a gap for water to drip into the door. Then it runs down and can freeze the outer door handle cable. I've had 2 vans so far with the same problem, could open the door fine but the cable would stick and the door wouldn't latch.
2. The sliding door. The bracket that holds the cable from the outer door handle to the latch is pretty flimsy and bends easily. Over a short time it will bend enough that the door won't open from the outside anymore. The fix for that is reinforce the bracket. I welded up a little reinforcement to support the cable holder and it's been perfect for 6 months now.
3.This is a bad one, might not affect everyone though....The transmission cooler is located down low in the bumper which is great for summer time on bare pavement but not when the roads are sanded and gravel gets kicked up a lot.
We had one van only a few months old have the cvt cooler punctured on the highway. The driver (obviously slow in the head) didn't realize and kept driving til it wouldn't move anymore. Then kept trying some more. Burnt out the cvt and dealer said no warranty. I ended up putting wire mesh on the inside of the lower bumper. No problems since. It's more of a problem on vans that see lots of gravel back roads or highway.
4.The back up cameras suck, it looks like they used different cameras on different years, the 18's look better than the 17's though.
5. The tires wear out fast. I've had 3 different brands of tire, 2 being factory and one type were winter tires. All the factory size and load rating. The front tires wear out crazy fast. I guess that's a feature.....
6.Another winter problem...The washer squirters don't work sometimes in the cold. Yes we use winter washer fluid. Year round. The problem is a check valve freezes/sticks. It's a black plastic Y fitting. I now just throw them in the trash and replace with a regular t or y fitting. I see no need for a check valve. The washers still work fine without.
With that said, here's what I've found wrong with these vans over the last 3-4 years.
1. The window moulding that runs along the bottom of the drivers (lh) door glass comes apart leaving a gap for water to drip into the door. Then it runs down and can freeze the outer door handle cable. I've had 2 vans so far with the same problem, could open the door fine but the cable would stick and the door wouldn't latch.
2. The sliding door. The bracket that holds the cable from the outer door handle to the latch is pretty flimsy and bends easily. Over a short time it will bend enough that the door won't open from the outside anymore. The fix for that is reinforce the bracket. I welded up a little reinforcement to support the cable holder and it's been perfect for 6 months now.
3.This is a bad one, might not affect everyone though....The transmission cooler is located down low in the bumper which is great for summer time on bare pavement but not when the roads are sanded and gravel gets kicked up a lot.
We had one van only a few months old have the cvt cooler punctured on the highway. The driver (obviously slow in the head) didn't realize and kept driving til it wouldn't move anymore. Then kept trying some more. Burnt out the cvt and dealer said no warranty. I ended up putting wire mesh on the inside of the lower bumper. No problems since. It's more of a problem on vans that see lots of gravel back roads or highway.
4.The back up cameras suck, it looks like they used different cameras on different years, the 18's look better than the 17's though.
5. The tires wear out fast. I've had 3 different brands of tire, 2 being factory and one type were winter tires. All the factory size and load rating. The front tires wear out crazy fast. I guess that's a feature.....
6.Another winter problem...The washer squirters don't work sometimes in the cold. Yes we use winter washer fluid. Year round. The problem is a check valve freezes/sticks. It's a black plastic Y fitting. I now just throw them in the trash and replace with a regular t or y fitting. I see no need for a check valve. The washers still work fine without.
A couple off questions:
The bluetooth phone microphone is poor - the other caller can't hear me.
Is is faulty or just a poor system?
The engine continues to rev when the accelerator is released between gear changes - 1st to 2nd to 3rd noticeably.
Main dealer says this is normal - is it?
There's an air escape or intake noise from the engine.
Again, the main dealer says this is normal?
Thanks in advance.
The bluetooth phone microphone is poor - the other caller can't hear me.
Is is faulty or just a poor system?
The engine continues to rev when the accelerator is released between gear changes - 1st to 2nd to 3rd noticeably.
Main dealer says this is normal - is it?
There's an air escape or intake noise from the engine.
Again, the main dealer says this is normal?
Thanks in advance.
Hello all, hello Phil,
I have been a happy owner of a NV200 for 60000km+ and 3years+ (with custom made bed and camping gears...
) and the warranty having ran out, it is time for me to put my hands in the care taking.
Thus I am looking for the technical documents for NV200 (I don't know the right name for it in english, what I mean is a 300+ pages book with schematics and detailled protocoles for all possible maintenance and repair operations on the car).
Phil, you display a schematics on your post, would you be able to direct me towards the document where this come from? This would be of great help!
Thank you
François
I have been a happy owner of a NV200 for 60000km+ and 3years+ (with custom made bed and camping gears...
) and the warranty having ran out, it is time for me to put my hands in the care taking.Thus I am looking for the technical documents for NV200 (I don't know the right name for it in english, what I mean is a 300+ pages book with schematics and detailled protocoles for all possible maintenance and repair operations on the car).
Phil, you display a schematics on your post, would you be able to direct me towards the document where this come from? This would be of great help!
Thank you
François
Technical documents
Hello all, hello Phil,
I have been a happy owner of a NV200 for 60000km+ and 3years+ (with custom made bed and camping gears... ) and the warranty having ran out, it is time for me to put my hands in the care taking.
Thus I am looking for the technical documents for NV200 (I don't know the right name for it in english, what I mean is a 300+ pages book with schematics and detailled protocoles for all possible maintenance and repair operations on the car).
Phil, you display a schematic on your post, would you be able to direct me towards the document from which this come from? This would be of great help!
Thank you
François
Hello all, hello Phil,
I have been a happy owner of a NV200 for 60000km+ and 3years+ (with custom made bed and camping gears...
) and the warranty having ran out, it is time for me to put my hands in the care taking.Thus I am looking for the technical documents for NV200 (I don't know the right name for it in english, what I mean is a 300+ pages book with schematics and detailled protocoles for all possible maintenance and repair operations on the car).
Phil, you display a schematic on your post, would you be able to direct me towards the document from which this come from? This would be of great help!
Thank you
François
Re towing
I got a trailer hitch.A Curt and a wiring harness from etrailer.
I was having work done on van so had them install the hitch, did wiring kit myself.
Hardest part was hiding wiring under the trim panels but was able to do a good job it's all well hidden.
It uses the European type converter box and worked right first time. Nice. Took a 2-3 hrs to do. But mainly plug and play.
Towed a small aluminum boat with some wood on top maybe a 700# load.
Keep the total GVRW well with in the limits and no issues at all
Transmission did not notice it and the van performed the same as when I had a 1500# load with no trailer.
The only reason for no trailer rating I understand is for the modified chassis for the american market.
Euro models have a tow rating. Trans is used on many other Nissans with towing capacity.
I also use the hitch socket for a bumper protector so when I get loaded with a forklift the hit it and not the tiny bumper.
FYI
I got a trailer hitch.A Curt and a wiring harness from etrailer.
I was having work done on van so had them install the hitch, did wiring kit myself.
Hardest part was hiding wiring under the trim panels but was able to do a good job it's all well hidden.
It uses the European type converter box and worked right first time. Nice. Took a 2-3 hrs to do. But mainly plug and play.
Towed a small aluminum boat with some wood on top maybe a 700# load.
Keep the total GVRW well with in the limits and no issues at all
Transmission did not notice it and the van performed the same as when I had a 1500# load with no trailer.
The only reason for no trailer rating I understand is for the modified chassis for the american market.
Euro models have a tow rating. Trans is used on many other Nissans with towing capacity.
I also use the hitch socket for a bumper protector so when I get loaded with a forklift the hit it and not the tiny bumper.
FYI
Tires, and other issues
The tires are bald after 22k miles. I called service and they stated that the tires should be rotated every5k miles and have an alignment every year. That's BS !!! Only 1 make for the tire with a c rating!!! Nissan needs to put 16inch wheels on and use a better tire!! I had to get Nissan rogue wheels and continental tires, redo the tire inflation monitors etc. to the tune of 2k dollars.
Living in the United States I own a NV200 from the North America plant, which I assume is based in Mexico. It is a 1.6 liter gas engine. After 70,000 miles in three years however, the most significant problem has been the tires. The OE American Cargo tires that come with the vehicle are nearly the only tires available. They are very expensive and don't seem to last 35,000 miles even with proper maintenance. There is only one other tire allowed to be mounted to the vehicle and they are even more expensive: the Continental. IMO it is the light weight of the vehicle at highway speeds that make the tires wear so rapidly. $500 plus to be replaced at the dealer or a qualified auto shop.
The vehicle has performed mostly well, but a major breakdown is a concern. The only chronic problem other than the tires so far, is a "clicking" noise from the steering assembly. Apparently, this is endemic to many north American Nissan models. All mechanics I have spoke with say it is minor and won't affect future performance.
I will say about the NV200 however, the throttle control is terrible. The navigation system screen is unreadable during the day. The sun-visors are absolutely useless. The cruise control should be recalled. And the position of the gear shift makes it too easy to knock out of gear.
The tires are bald after 22k miles. I called service and they stated that the tires should be rotated every5k miles and have an alignment every year. That's BS !!! Only 1 make for the tire with a c rating!!! Nissan needs to put 16inch wheels on and use a better tire!! I had to get Nissan rogue wheels and continental tires, redo the tire inflation monitors etc. to the tune of 2k dollars.
Living in the United States I own a NV200 from the North America plant, which I assume is based in Mexico. It is a 1.6 liter gas engine. After 70,000 miles in three years however, the most significant problem has been the tires. The OE American Cargo tires that come with the vehicle are nearly the only tires available. They are very expensive and don't seem to last 35,000 miles even with proper maintenance. There is only one other tire allowed to be mounted to the vehicle and they are even more expensive: the Continental. IMO it is the light weight of the vehicle at highway speeds that make the tires wear so rapidly. $500 plus to be replaced at the dealer or a qualified auto shop.
The vehicle has performed mostly well, but a major breakdown is a concern. The only chronic problem other than the tires so far, is a "clicking" noise from the steering assembly. Apparently, this is endemic to many north American Nissan models. All mechanics I have spoke with say it is minor and won't affect future performance.
I will say about the NV200 however, the throttle control is terrible. The navigation system screen is unreadable during the day. The sun-visors are absolutely useless. The cruise control should be recalled. And the position of the gear shift makes it too easy to knock out of gear.
Tires
The tires are bald after 22k miles. I called service and they stated that the tires should be rotated every5k miles and have an alignment every year. That's BS !!! Only 1 make for the tire with a c rating!!! Nissan needs to put 16inch wheels on and use a better tire!! I had to get Nissan rogue wheels and continental tires, redo the tire inflation monitors etc. to the tune of 2k dollars.
The tires are bald after 22k miles. I called service and they stated that the tires should be rotated every5k miles and have an alignment every year. That's BS !!! Only 1 make for the tire with a c rating!!! Nissan needs to put 16inch wheels on and use a better tire!! I had to get Nissan rogue wheels and continental tires, redo the tire inflation monitors etc. to the tune of 2k dollars.
Hopefully some useful info... I have 7 NV200's from 2010 to 2015 vintage. The 2010 van snapped a cambelt at 120,000miles (and yes it had been changed at 75k) - terminal engine. The second 2010 van blew head gasket at 145,000 miles, and a 2011 van had a failed turbo at 120,000 miles. Generally though, these vans are superb, great mileage (all diesels) and nice to drive - although I agree with an earlier post that the window switch is a pain in the knee - and a 6th gear would really be useful!
Odd problems are that the older vans have - they like to blow bulbs regularly and the two 2012 vans both seem to have the immobiliser kick in if the side door is opened before the drivers door. Baffled us as well as the Nissan dealer. The annoying idle rattle is caused by the air intake clip losing its grip - easily fixed with a cable tie.
I also have some Ford vans, no more or less niggles than the NV200's. I've yet to find anything better for our use although may consider going petrol now.
Hope this is of interest to someone!
Odd problems are that the older vans have - they like to blow bulbs regularly and the two 2012 vans both seem to have the immobiliser kick in if the side door is opened before the drivers door. Baffled us as well as the Nissan dealer. The annoying idle rattle is caused by the air intake clip losing its grip - easily fixed with a cable tie.
I also have some Ford vans, no more or less niggles than the NV200's. I've yet to find anything better for our use although may consider going petrol now.
Hope this is of interest to someone!
Yes,but you cant get that kind of Subaru new or any kind of those better quality days Vehicles and we have now even cheaper made vans/cars.Lots of cheap but modern electronic inside so other parts must save factory costs =lots of plastic all over,thin sheet metal,Engine+gearbox one "sealed box"+disposable item 150000km or 10 years then to crusher and buy new one,thank you.
Too expensive to give "artificial respiration" and try to give longer life to it because you cant fix it yourself,must be professional/tools right+parts expensive and that electronic....
But that Exhaust rattle...Yep..it comes from passenger side,just beginning of that exhaust pipe where it can shake so much that it gives that sound=put something,like silencer fixing paste to joints (+ piece of wood/rubber etc if it gets too near to frame).
Hot Place=Not burning yourself and not burning fixing methods=)
Hope you understand and sorry again about my English...
Too expensive to give "artificial respiration" and try to give longer life to it because you cant fix it yourself,must be professional/tools right+parts expensive and that electronic....
But that Exhaust rattle...Yep..it comes from passenger side,just beginning of that exhaust pipe where it can shake so much that it gives that sound=put something,like silencer fixing paste to joints (+ piece of wood/rubber etc if it gets too near to frame).
Hot Place=Not burning yourself and not burning fixing methods=)
Hope you understand and sorry again about my English...
I've got just over 3000 miles on my NV200 and so far it's(from my last post) been in for rear side(sliding) door issue, and about to go in for an exhaust/brake rattle. Rear sliding doors started to stick/not close, dealer replaced the hinges and readjusted the latch points. Made the doors easier to operate but sometimes it still won't close right. Just today it developed a loud rattle when it's in drive and your on the brake pedal, on level surface. Seems to be coming from the rear end, sounds almost like ABS is kicking in non stop but also like the exhaust is rattling. I looked under and all of the bushings are in place.
Very cheap vehicle. Everything works but new things are always popping up once in a while. My $1000, 250,000 mile, 12 year old Subaru beater had the same amount of issues...
Very cheap vehicle. Everything works but new things are always popping up once in a while. My $1000, 250,000 mile, 12 year old Subaru beater had the same amount of issues...
I was considering one of these NV200's and even went to a couple of dealerships to inquire. But I couldn't stop thinking about how much I dislike the tires/wheels. And they seem to have a lot of problems, from what I gathered. I hadn't even noticed this thread yet. Now I'm looking at getting a Nissan Frontier pickup and custom outfitting it's bed instead. That would work in my situation. If quality and tires were better on the NV200 I would have been happy to make it my company's first vehicle.
So instead of taking it to the dealer and wasting their time on such a little flaw, I took apart every panel in the rear, STILL COULD NOT FIND THE SOURCE OF THE RATTLING.
I did narrow the source down to the rear doors. The panels above the rear wheels are completely hollow in side. Nothing in there to rattle. The rear doors have a vapor barrier inside that's barely held on by cheap tar-like glue. I swear it's coming from the door handle mechanism. I guess I'll just turn up the music until the warranty expires(it's gonna be a long time LOL), then rip apart the doors to get my revenge > don't want to ruin the warranty coverage as it was literally the only reason I got the fungly looking, cheaply built NV200 over the Transit Connect.
I did narrow the source down to the rear doors. The panels above the rear wheels are completely hollow in side. Nothing in there to rattle. The rear doors have a vapor barrier inside that's barely held on by cheap tar-like glue. I swear it's coming from the door handle mechanism. I guess I'll just turn up the music until the warranty expires(it's gonna be a long time LOL), then rip apart the doors to get my revenge >
don't want to ruin the warranty coverage as it was literally the only reason I got the fungly looking, cheaply built NV200 over the Transit Connect.-
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